• Photos by Dan Lecca
“This Fall/Winter 2020, we were inspired by Francesca DiMattio’s sculptures. Her work “imbues the decorative with strength and power.” Wedding-dress beads and basket weaving, often dismissed as mere decorations, transform into imposing structures, blurring what’s man-woman, old-new, high-low. DiMattio challenges the traditional norms of femininity. I remembered from studying art history how the work of Judith Leyster, one of the great Dutch Masters, was misattributed after her death simply because she was a woman. It’s a struggle that women artists have faced throughout history and still do to this day.

The collection reinterprets classic and nostalgic themes: menswear suiting cut with a softer shape, structural details played against fluid silhouettes, historic references reworked with modern ideas. All epitomized in the gray power suit, silk lace blouse and tall leather boots. Refined and lighthearted, especially the prints which were designed by DiMattio. Based off our shared appreciation of the history of Turkish, English and French porcelain, but here the colors and patterns are bolder and more exaggerated.

Equal emphasis is placed on bags and boots. The new Eleanor shoulder bag — structured and crafted from Italian leather. For the Lee Radziwill collection, new interpretations of the ’70s saddlebag and an accordion shape. Every look is punctuated with a strong boot: mid-calf, riding, over-the-knee; pointed or tapered-square toe.

This morning, Alice Smith will perform Q-Tip’s version of the 1963 classic “You Don’t Own Me.”

Eleven of Francesca DiMattio’s sculptures are placed throughout the runway, courtesy of Salon 94 and Pippy Houldsworth Gallery.” — Tory Burch

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