Milan Issue: Tory’s City Guide
Milan is one of the fashion capitals of the world. It’s also home to some of the most exciting art and architecture. Often, all three collide in incredible ways. And of course, the food is divine. Here a guide to this ancient-meets-modern Italian city.
Duomo di Milano
It took 500 years and a French emperor (Napoleon
himself) to complete one of Italy’s crowning jewels.
The stained-glass windows, three alters and view —
on a clear day you can see the Alps — from the
Terraces, or rooftop, were worth the wait.
Prada Foundation Contemporary
Rem Koolhaas and Miuccia Prada continue to be one of
the most exciting architecture/art partners with their
contemporary museum, which opens in May. Film geeks
will appreciate the Wes Anderson-designed bar.
If you’re going to get lost — purposefully, of course
— this is the place to do it. Expect to weave in and out
of small shops, cafes and side streets for hours.
Villa Necchi Campiglio
Amid all the antiquities and history of the city stands this
relatively new villa, by Piero Portaluppi, that nevertheless
offers a view into what la dolce vita was like in the 1930s.
The grounds, pool, tennis court and pristine interiors are
calming and beautiful.
Jannelli & Volpi
Peruse the Jannelli and Volpi families’ deep, deep
selection of wall coverings and fabrics and equally
curated collection of furniture new and old.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Technically, the galleria is a shopping mall. But this
one was built in the mid 1800s, is being restored in
collaboration by Prada and Versace. Even if you’re not
going to shop, it’s worth indulging a local custom of
spinning on your heel on the bull mosaic in the center
to ward off evil.
10 Corso Como
Carla Sozzani’s concept store — part art, part commerce,
all cool — never fails to inspire with its revolving and
evolving roster of exhibitions and designs.
Cavalli E Nastri
The boutique for vintage hunters who love colorful wares, heritage brands one-of-a-kind treasures. It’s also known for supporting young designers.
For 190 years, Cova has been the go-to for artists, authors, revolutionaries, politicians and, these days, the stylish and well-traveled sets. Its pastries are divine. And how many places can say they have been immortalized on paper by Hemingway twice?
Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone
Even when the city seems to be bursting at the seams, there’s a sense of calm when you’re sitting under the wide umbrellas at this traditional family-run restaurant. Take your time and enjoy the wine list.
Warm, welcoming and eclectic, The Small — a translation of owner Alessandro Lo Piccolo’s last name — is always packed. Piccolo has been known to find the tired traveler a candlelit table, cradle a baby during dinner and even create a special off-menu dish.
Order the house specialty, the Negroni Sbagliato, a Negroni made with sparkling white wine instead of gin. A great place to start or end the evening.
Latteria San Marco
There are only eight tables at this true family restaurant run by chef Arturo Maggi, who changes the traditional Milanese menu almost daily according to what’s fresh.